Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Tue 8th- Thur 17th Jan – Luang Prabang
Books –
David Sedaris – Dress Your Family in Corduroy and Denim (2004)
P.D. James – The Children of Men
Joyce Johnson & Jack Kerouac - Doors wide Open - A beat Love affair in Letters 1957-58
David Sedaris – Dress Your Family in Corduroy and Denim (2004)
P.D. James – The Children of Men
Joyce Johnson & Jack Kerouac - Doors wide Open - A beat Love affair in Letters 1957-58
Monday, January 7, 2008
4th to 7th January South to Luang Prabang
After spending 6 days in Luang Nam Tha, Laos I have just spent the last few days on a spectacular if at times a little uncomfortable journey South to Luang Prabang.
The first day I took a 120km (4 hour) bus trip to Udomxai. A fantastic trip through the mountains of Northern Laos. The road is small and in very bad repair hence the time it takes to travel such a short distance. Every few hundred meters the road disappears and you are on an un-tarmaced stretch or there are large holes in the road which the bus has to navigate around. You would never believe this is the main highway south.
On the bus I met a Dutch guy who with his friend was on a cycle trip of the area. He was having a day off as he had had a bit of a stomach upset. His bike went on the roof of the bus. His friend was doing the 120km journey himself. The road was quiet and passed through some really fantastic scenery. Lots of small tribal villages built from wood and with thatched roofs and beautiful views of the mountains. Outside of the towns its like going back 200 years apart from the motorbikes and the odd satellite dish people seem to be living a very primitive life.
On the way we stopped at some road side stalls with sold various food stuffs. These included bat, roasted forest birds and most gruesomely roasted monkey, head and all. Oh I forgot to mention the rats, delicious I’m sure. I’ve been eating some kebabs from the night market in Luang Nam Tah. It never occurred to me to question what the meat was let’s hope not rat.
I spent the night in Udomxai a busy little village with more guest houses than tourists. The next day the weather was cold and misty in the morning again. Most days it has been like this until about 11am and then warm and sunny until sunset at 6pm. The nights have also been a bit cold.
I got the bus to Luang Prabang, a minibus with at least 4 too many people squeezed into it. I managed to get about two thirds of a seat with the edge digging into my bum. It’s a 5 hour trip to Luang Prabang. After 3 hours we stopped at a small village called Pakan*****. It looked interesting and there was a guest house so I decided to stop there for the day.
About 5min out of town there was a Humong Village and I took a bit of a wander through there, the locals were very friendly especially the children, shouting out Sabai-Dee (hello in Loa) at every opportunity. It was almost like going round some sort of real life museum exhibit the people live so privatively.
The next day I decide on another change of plan a and got a songtail ( small pickup truck covered and with two benches down the sides at the back) to a village called Nong Kiew. The Songtail was already full with locals when I got there. I managed to squeeze in and sit on a sack on the floor. It was a bit like one of those who many people you can squeeze into a mini tricks. After about an hour and managing to get another couple of people onto the back we got safely but sorely to Nong Kiew at 10:00.
Boats leave from Nong Kiew along the Nam Ou river both North and South to Luang Prabang ( 100,00 kip). I had planned to get one of these. I had expected to have to wait until the next day however one was due to leave a 11:00 and I managed to get a ticket. Nong Kiew is a spectacular little village in its self by the river and surrounded by mountains. It would be a good place to spend a day or two if it was warmer in the mornings.
The boat trip upriver from Luang Prabang is 9 hours and the down river trip is 6 hours. 12 of us got into a covered longtail boat and started a fantastic journey. By this time the sun had come out and the weather was perfect.
6 hour sailing down the Nam Ou river past small fishing villages in spectacular mountain scenery. Fishermen in there boats, kids waving from the banks, water buffalo and cattle wading in the water. At times the river got quite shallow and we had to pass trough some rapids here and there. At one stage we had to get out and walk a few hundred meters because the river was so low. About an hour from Luang Prabag the Nam Ou joins the Mekong river so I have had a little trip on the Mekong too. All in all it was a fantastic trip.
I’m now in Luang Prabang wich is a little bit of paradise, surrounded by the Mekong and Nam Xiang rivers and mountains. Luang Pradang is a world heritage site and you can see why, lots of old French colonial buildings and because of its world heritage status very well preserved. It has more than its fair share of tourists but you can still find a quiet spot to sit by the river and have a Beer Lao. (Especially the Dark Beer Lao). There are lots of Wats to visit including one on a hill in the centre of town. I went up there this evening and watched the sunset, with another 100 tourists of course but still stunning.
I think I’ll have spend the next couple of days here relaxing. It a bit more expensive than other parts of Loas for accommodation but there are lots of good cheep stalls to eat from, no rats. I found an excellent one tonight where you choose from a large selection of precooked vegetable dishes rice and noodles. Pile it up on your plate and then give it to a woman who heats it all up for you in a Wok. Only 5000 kip (25p) and another 9,000 kip for a big beer Lao.
The first day I took a 120km (4 hour) bus trip to Udomxai. A fantastic trip through the mountains of Northern Laos. The road is small and in very bad repair hence the time it takes to travel such a short distance. Every few hundred meters the road disappears and you are on an un-tarmaced stretch or there are large holes in the road which the bus has to navigate around. You would never believe this is the main highway south.
On the bus I met a Dutch guy who with his friend was on a cycle trip of the area. He was having a day off as he had had a bit of a stomach upset. His bike went on the roof of the bus. His friend was doing the 120km journey himself. The road was quiet and passed through some really fantastic scenery. Lots of small tribal villages built from wood and with thatched roofs and beautiful views of the mountains. Outside of the towns its like going back 200 years apart from the motorbikes and the odd satellite dish people seem to be living a very primitive life.
On the way we stopped at some road side stalls with sold various food stuffs. These included bat, roasted forest birds and most gruesomely roasted monkey, head and all. Oh I forgot to mention the rats, delicious I’m sure. I’ve been eating some kebabs from the night market in Luang Nam Tah. It never occurred to me to question what the meat was let’s hope not rat.
I spent the night in Udomxai a busy little village with more guest houses than tourists. The next day the weather was cold and misty in the morning again. Most days it has been like this until about 11am and then warm and sunny until sunset at 6pm. The nights have also been a bit cold.
I got the bus to Luang Prabang, a minibus with at least 4 too many people squeezed into it. I managed to get about two thirds of a seat with the edge digging into my bum. It’s a 5 hour trip to Luang Prabang. After 3 hours we stopped at a small village called Pakan*****. It looked interesting and there was a guest house so I decided to stop there for the day.
About 5min out of town there was a Humong Village and I took a bit of a wander through there, the locals were very friendly especially the children, shouting out Sabai-Dee (hello in Loa) at every opportunity. It was almost like going round some sort of real life museum exhibit the people live so privatively.
The next day I decide on another change of plan a and got a songtail ( small pickup truck covered and with two benches down the sides at the back) to a village called Nong Kiew. The Songtail was already full with locals when I got there. I managed to squeeze in and sit on a sack on the floor. It was a bit like one of those who many people you can squeeze into a mini tricks. After about an hour and managing to get another couple of people onto the back we got safely but sorely to Nong Kiew at 10:00.
Boats leave from Nong Kiew along the Nam Ou river both North and South to Luang Prabang ( 100,00 kip). I had planned to get one of these. I had expected to have to wait until the next day however one was due to leave a 11:00 and I managed to get a ticket. Nong Kiew is a spectacular little village in its self by the river and surrounded by mountains. It would be a good place to spend a day or two if it was warmer in the mornings.
The boat trip upriver from Luang Prabang is 9 hours and the down river trip is 6 hours. 12 of us got into a covered longtail boat and started a fantastic journey. By this time the sun had come out and the weather was perfect.
6 hour sailing down the Nam Ou river past small fishing villages in spectacular mountain scenery. Fishermen in there boats, kids waving from the banks, water buffalo and cattle wading in the water. At times the river got quite shallow and we had to pass trough some rapids here and there. At one stage we had to get out and walk a few hundred meters because the river was so low. About an hour from Luang Prabag the Nam Ou joins the Mekong river so I have had a little trip on the Mekong too. All in all it was a fantastic trip.
I’m now in Luang Prabang wich is a little bit of paradise, surrounded by the Mekong and Nam Xiang rivers and mountains. Luang Pradang is a world heritage site and you can see why, lots of old French colonial buildings and because of its world heritage status very well preserved. It has more than its fair share of tourists but you can still find a quiet spot to sit by the river and have a Beer Lao. (Especially the Dark Beer Lao). There are lots of Wats to visit including one on a hill in the centre of town. I went up there this evening and watched the sunset, with another 100 tourists of course but still stunning.
I think I’ll have spend the next couple of days here relaxing. It a bit more expensive than other parts of Loas for accommodation but there are lots of good cheep stalls to eat from, no rats. I found an excellent one tonight where you choose from a large selection of precooked vegetable dishes rice and noodles. Pile it up on your plate and then give it to a woman who heats it all up for you in a Wok. Only 5000 kip (25p) and another 9,000 kip for a big beer Lao.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Mon 31st Dec - Hogmanay Luang Nam Tha
Hogmanay.
Took a bike ride to Muang Sing - Bicycles can be rented for 10,000 kip a day, decent bikes too.
I spent the evening with a Swiss a Jewish American, a German a Lithuanian and a Dutch guy. Discussing how we celebrate New Year in our respective countries. Sylvester in Germany I think. I had some trouble explaining first footing and the coal thing. The restaurant closed at 9:30 for New Year so I was in my bed by 10:00.
Took a bike ride to Muang Sing - Bicycles can be rented for 10,000 kip a day, decent bikes too.
I spent the evening with a Swiss a Jewish American, a German a Lithuanian and a Dutch guy. Discussing how we celebrate New Year in our respective countries. Sylvester in Germany I think. I had some trouble explaining first footing and the coal thing. The restaurant closed at 9:30 for New Year so I was in my bed by 10:00.
Sun 30th Dec - Luang Nam Tha
sabadiii
I had about 5 beer Laos last night. Taste really good but its not true that you don’t get a hangover. I would say its comparable to Tiger or Singha beer. But only 7,000 to 10,000 Kip (40 – 55p) for 640ml.
I decided to move guest house, while the room was good being on the main street and next to the reception TV made it a bit noisy. I found a nice place of the main road all new for 40,000 kip. Only problem solar powered hot water, lets hope it stays sunny. Adounsiri Guest House
Most days here it has been dull up until 10:30 and sunny from then until about 17:30.
The main activity here appears to be trekking. A range of treks are available from the green discovery office. Seems like a good place with lots of free information.
Spoke to an American Jewish girl here called Myra. She was resting up after a stomach upset. She is retired, 42 and retired for 4 years. Only thing is she needs to stay in cheap countries like Laos for 6 months of the year to make her finances work. There appears to be a few people around SEA that are following this path. I met a 60 year old Swedish composer who was doing the same sort of thing. Surprisingly without a TGF.
Had a meal in the local night market. Lao noodles with sauce, beef kebabs, grilled banana with coconut followed by a Lao crepe. Very nice.
I had about 5 beer Laos last night. Taste really good but its not true that you don’t get a hangover. I would say its comparable to Tiger or Singha beer. But only 7,000 to 10,000 Kip (40 – 55p) for 640ml.
I decided to move guest house, while the room was good being on the main street and next to the reception TV made it a bit noisy. I found a nice place of the main road all new for 40,000 kip. Only problem solar powered hot water, lets hope it stays sunny. Adounsiri Guest House
Most days here it has been dull up until 10:30 and sunny from then until about 17:30.
The main activity here appears to be trekking. A range of treks are available from the green discovery office. Seems like a good place with lots of free information.
Spoke to an American Jewish girl here called Myra. She was resting up after a stomach upset. She is retired, 42 and retired for 4 years. Only thing is she needs to stay in cheap countries like Laos for 6 months of the year to make her finances work. There appears to be a few people around SEA that are following this path. I met a 60 year old Swedish composer who was doing the same sort of thing. Surprisingly without a TGF.
Had a meal in the local night market. Lao noodles with sauce, beef kebabs, grilled banana with coconut followed by a Lao crepe. Very nice.
Sat 29th Dec Chaing Saen to Luang nam Tha., Laos
Time to go to Laos
Songtail to a town half way there 1hr 40 baht forget the name. Then a Songtail to Chaing Khong another 40 baht.
Nice journey often looking down onto the Mekong river. In areas the river is rocky and very scenic.
At Chaing Khong pas through Thai immigration at port. 5 min. Cross by boat to Laos 2 min 30 Baht.
Laos immigration $35 +1 for weekend passport Photo required. Visa on Arrival 30 day.
Wanted 200 baht for Tuk Tuk to bus station 10km away no way. Started walking in hope of a lift or a fair price. Tuk Tuk stoped after 10 mins 10,000 kip (30 baht).
Arrived at bus station at 12:28pm bus was supposed to leave 13:30 I thought. It left almost full 12:30. a bit of luck. 55,000 kip to Luang Nam Tha.
Amazing cross a river border and the world changes. Laos is very much poorer that Thailand. Wooden huts on stilts with thatched roofs are the norm in the villages outside of town. (Hai Xai ?).
Bus station in Luang Nam Tha is 4-5 km from town as usual. 10,000 kip (55p) by Tuk Tuk.
Checked into a Guest House on the main street 50,000 kip.
Lots of backpacking tourists gathered around a few restaurants and guest houses in the main street.
Spent the evening with a Dutch guy with an unrememberable name. He was bit of a wind up merchant. He took pleasure in telling me that in his visit t Aberdeen his main memory is of scantily clad girls spewing up on the shore front on a Saturday night. He also told me that as far as he remembered Scots greeted each other sound ARGHHH. I was to hear this a few times in the next few days. I didn’t fall for the bait it was just his strange way of amusing himself..
Songtail to a town half way there 1hr 40 baht forget the name. Then a Songtail to Chaing Khong another 40 baht.
Nice journey often looking down onto the Mekong river. In areas the river is rocky and very scenic.
At Chaing Khong pas through Thai immigration at port. 5 min. Cross by boat to Laos 2 min 30 Baht.
Laos immigration $35 +1 for weekend passport Photo required. Visa on Arrival 30 day.
Wanted 200 baht for Tuk Tuk to bus station 10km away no way. Started walking in hope of a lift or a fair price. Tuk Tuk stoped after 10 mins 10,000 kip (30 baht).
Arrived at bus station at 12:28pm bus was supposed to leave 13:30 I thought. It left almost full 12:30. a bit of luck. 55,000 kip to Luang Nam Tha.
Amazing cross a river border and the world changes. Laos is very much poorer that Thailand. Wooden huts on stilts with thatched roofs are the norm in the villages outside of town. (Hai Xai ?).
Bus station in Luang Nam Tha is 4-5 km from town as usual. 10,000 kip (55p) by Tuk Tuk.
Checked into a Guest House on the main street 50,000 kip.
Lots of backpacking tourists gathered around a few restaurants and guest houses in the main street.
Spent the evening with a Dutch guy with an unrememberable name. He was bit of a wind up merchant. He took pleasure in telling me that in his visit t Aberdeen his main memory is of scantily clad girls spewing up on the shore front on a Saturday night. He also told me that as far as he remembered Scots greeted each other sound ARGHHH. I was to hear this a few times in the next few days. I didn’t fall for the bait it was just his strange way of amusing himself..
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